Satisfying service for faithful food patrons

Since 1996, La Casa di Norma has served a faithful clientele in Crystal River, and the popular restaurant featuring Italian and Spanish cuisine shows no signs of slowing down.

MATTHEW BECK/Chronicle

La Casa di Norma offers a variety of freshly prepared Italian dishes. Two of their more popular specialties include chicken a la Romano, left, and seafood casserole.

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From made-to-order paella to favorites such as piccata, francese, lasagna and marsala dishes to unique appetizers including escargot-stuffed mushrooms and eggplant rollatini, and homemade desserts and soups, the café has something for almost everyone.

Among the nicest aspects of the little restaurant off U.S. 19 in the Crystal River Shopping Center are friendly owners Norma and Licio Ortiz, who served patrons at the Brooksville Country Club for 10 years before moving to Crystal River in 1996.

She is a native of Salerno, Italy, and he is from Cunca, Ecuador, which explains, they note, why their menu features Italian and Spanish dishes — “about 85 percent Italian and 15 percent Spanish,” Norma Ortiz said.

The couple met in Chicago decades ago, where he honed his restaurant skills at various eateries including Benihana’s, a favorite place to dine for celebrities in that area. Licio Ortiz points to a photo of him at Benihana’s with actor Mickey Rooney.

In fact, one wall at the casual but elegant restaurant is covered with photos of the couple as well as regular customers who provide framed pictures for display. The general ambiance is quiet and the decor pleasing.

The Ortizes said they love to travel and one month each summer they close the restaurant to visit far away places. They were in Ecuador last year, where they purchased a condo for retirement, previously toured Italy and this year will see Hawaii for the first time.

But cooking good food with flair is the hallmark of Licio Ortiz for 35 years. He has one kitchen assistant. His wife makes desserts and takes care of service in the 35-seat dining room with only one helper, Jeannie Mesker, an 11-year employee.

Ortiz said some his most popular dishes include seafood Riviera with Northeast Atlantic clams and gulf scallops sautéed with fresh garlic in white wine, $18.95; and chicken Florentine sautéed with spinach and cheese, with white wine and a touch of lemon, $13.95. All served with pasta.

Veal dishes are standouts, too, such as the Vitello Francese, lightly breaded and sautéed in white wine and lemon-butter sauce, $17.95, and Vitello Diana, sautéed in brandy and mushroom cream sauce, $16.95.

Many of the dinner items are available on the early dinner menu from 4 to 5:30 p.m. at a reduced price. For example, flounder Francese, $12.95; chicken piccata, $8.95; and spaghetti with clams and white or red clam sauce, $8.95, plus much more.

All entrees are served with choice of homemade soup prepared daily or house salad and Cuban garlic bread baked on the premises.

You will also find a good selection of starters: bruschetta, $4.95; New Zealand mussels marinara, $6.95, and black beans and rice, $2.95 and $3.95, to name a few.

The paella tops the menu price list because it’s very labor intensive, Ortiz explained. Diners wishing to have that specialty need to call and order it at least two hours in advance. An order for one is $19.95 and $35.95 for two.

Ortiz said he did take limited culinary school classes many years ago, but said “I worked my way up cooking with enthusiasm and with my heart.”

“Heart” is also evident in the desserts Norma Ortiz makes, including the tiramisu, flan, tortufo, spumoni, Key lime ice cream and a special white chocolate raspberry cheesecake.

A faithful customer is senior citizen Anna Holub, who said she travels to La Casa di Norma at least three times a week to dine. Her favorite dish is the chicken Francese. “But,” she noted with emphasis, “everything he makes is just delicious.”

Maybe that’s because patrons count on the couple to meet most any special wishes. Ortiz said once a diner requested lobster, which is not on the menu.

“I went out right away and got the lobster and came back and prepared it,” he said, ensuring another happy diner.

Italian and Spanish wines and popular brands of beer are available, plus cappuccino and espresso. Salads are dressed with raspberry vinaigrette or the house-made bleu cheese and ranch dressings.

In a faltering economy, La Casa di Norma has managed to be one of the most durable restaurants in Citrus County.

La Casa di Norma in the Crystal River Shopping Center is open from 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and closed Sunday and Monday. Private parties are available by reservation anytime with seating for 50.

Reservations are recommended by calling 352-795-4694. Credit cards are accepted for orders $15 or more.

Here are a couple of favorite recipes from La Casa di Norma Chef Licio Ortiz:

GARLIC SHRIMP
* 1 1/2 ounces butter
* 3 ounces fresh chopped garlic
* 2 ounces white wine
* 3 ounces half and half cream
* 7 large shrimp

In a skillet, sauté butter, garlic and white wine. Add shrimp and sauté for 2 minutes. Add cream and cook 2 more minutes.

Serve over or with pasta. It makes one serving.

CHICKEN FLORENTINE
* 6-ounce chicken breast
* 1 ounce butter
* 2 ounces white wine
* 1/2 ounce lemon juice
* 2 slices Mozzarella cheese
* 2 ounces spinach

Sauté chicken in butter. Add wine, lemon juice and spinach. When all ingredients are cooked, add Mozzarella cheese and finish in oven until cheese is melted.

It makes one serving.

Julianne Munn is the food writer for the Citrus County Chronicle. Email her at jmunn2@tampabay.rr.com.